Big granite, long routes and four days in one of WA’s wildest climbing destinations.

Escape the city this King’s Birthday long weekend and join CAWA for another climbing adventure at Peak Charles, one of Western Australia’s great multi-pitch destinations.

Rising dramatically from the Great Western Woodlands, Peak Charles offers the kind of climbing that makes the long drive worthwhile: huge granite faces, exposed multi-pitch routes, adventurous trad climbing and plenty of time on the rock with other experienced WA climbers.

Classics range from Badile (11) and the 500-metre A Walk In The Park (13) through to Juluka (18) and Beckoning Horizon (19). There is some sport climbing, but options are limited and mostly harder, including Double Scorpion (23), Mr Pharmacist (24), Egyptian Shadow (25) and French Connections (25).

Jesse-Jane on Mr Pharmacist (24) at The Farrside Wall Photo: Paul Donovan

Chris Young on Spartacus (19) Photo: Jiri Stastny

Jiri Stastny on Beckoning Horizon (19) at Central Gully Photo: Peter Zhang

Jason Lieu on first pitch of Conquistador (15) on Karakoram Wall Photo: Jiri Stastny

This is not a beginner climbing trip or a guided event. Peak Charles is remote and the climbing is predominantly adventurous multi-pitch trad. Participants need the skills and equipment to climb independently, or must arrange to climb with an appropriately experienced partner before attending.

Off the rock, the weekend is equally about community: sharing beta, swapping climbing stories, meeting new partners and spending a few days away with other CAWA climbers.

Bring your climbing and camping gear, plenty of food and all the water you will need. The Peak Charles campground has bush toilets but usually no freshwater. Camping is free, cannot be booked and operates on a first-come, first-served basis.

Climbing at Peak Charles

Peak Charles is primarily a multi-pitch traditional climbing destination. Climbers should be comfortable managing themselves in an outdoor environment, including route finding, trad protection, multi-pitch systems, communication, anchors and descent.

Some Peak Charles classics include:

• Badile - 11

• A Walk In The Park - 13, approximately 500 m and 13 pitches

• Juluka - 18

• Beckoning Horizon - 19

• Spartacus - 19

Sport climbing is limited and should not be the primary reason for attending. Established harder sport routes include:

• Double Scorpion - 23

• Mr Pharmacist - 24

• Egyptian Shadow - 25

• French Connections - 25

• Golden Shower - 26

For more info, please check theCrag and this mini-guide

Camping in Nature’s Embrace

We’ll stay at Peak Charles Campground, immediately below the mountain. DBCA currently advises that:

• camping is free

• campsites cannot be booked

• sites are available on a first-come, first-served basis

• bush toilets are available

• freshwater is usually not available

• the nearest supplies are at Salmon Gums

• campfires are not permitted

• there is currently no park entry fee

Peak Charles is a remote location, so participants should arrive completely self-sufficient with adequate water, food, fuel, first aid, camping equipment and everything required for planned climbs.

Important

This is not a guided event. Participants climb independently and are responsible for their own safety, equipment, decisions and climbing systems. CAWA does not provide instruction or supervision.

Weather is particularly important at Peak Charles. DBCA warns that the summit terrain is steep and slippery when wet, and CAWA may cancel or modify the trip if conditions make climbing unsuitable.

Cedric Puig leading Double Scorpion at The Fareside Photo: Jiri Stasny

Seb Mezies on Jaluka (**18, 2nd pitch), Chris Young on belay Photo: Jiri Stastny

Central Gully

Henry McNamee on Friends for Life (18) at Spartacus Slabs Photo: Jiri Stastny

Approach to Central Gully

Cedric Puig on French Connections (25), The Farside Wall Photo: Jiri Stastny

Remi Vignals on Call Me Thor Photo: Brian Tan